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2006 年收藏幾款陳廣和堂 易武野寨茶品,其中 有刮風寨
時隔多年,剛好製茶人有一茶文,轉貼於此,供惠顧愛茶人參考 (因愛茶人也有國際茶友透過軟體翻譯未竟其意僅供參考):
018年7月24日 ·
名山名寨的個性與品牌化的趨勢
陳智同 陳廣和堂茶行
任何一種名山茶均有牢不可破的地域性，最主要受到當地的土壤特性、地形、茶葉品種、樹齡、生態條件及摘採數量等因素的影響，氣候和製作條件是屬於中介變數的一部分，經濟學之父，亞當史密斯在《國富論》裡面談到葡萄樹比任何一種果樹都容易受到土壤的影響，而且會從某種土壤中吸收到特殊的風味，這種風味不管受到何種耕種或修剪的方式，都無法給予。這也許是對於舊世界葡萄酒產地的一種貼切的描述，但在科學上不一定有確切的數據支持。
誠然風味不可量化，但可以量化的東西未必能喝，我想藥品量化的程度會比較高，同樣的道理，名山茶也受到類似條件的製約，如果我們把特殊的土壤風味轉變成特殊的山頭區域，那名山茶的形成便不是意外的事，不過可以確定的是每一個山頭的味道必然存在著不同，例如易武是甜香帶酪酸，而班章卻是油樟香帶苦底，這不能不說是環境帶來的影響，至於名山茶的形成源自於特殊的市場特性及歷史因素，最重要的還是其茶葉的口感及品質在某程度上取得市場主流口感的共識，我們可以這麼說，普洱茶在當年份的茶在內涵成分上並沒有太大的差異，可能只是內涵數據上輕微的不同，但在價格上卻有如此大的差異，這不是科學可以解釋的，這是一種消費偏好及文化的表現，也就是說從科學的角度來講很多茶的內涵其實差不多，營養價值也差不多，但卻有不同的命運及表現，這是為何？其實說白了那就是人給它的價值，當很多人認為名山茶的風味有價值，易武、班章的茶有特點，口感優異，基本上它就具有一定的市場價值，以易武為例子，早在百年以前便是正山，目前市場上許多高價的古董茶多來自易武，這就形成了行市，一個有百年共識的產地，其在市場上的地位可想而知，而班章是新竄起的名寨，雖然沒有老茶加持，但特殊的風味及口感仍然受到市場的認同，所以我們知道，市場最先認同的往往是口感及風韻，我們可以說是土壤特性的影響，但市場看不到其他的條件，例如製作的工法、生態條件等等，但這些條件最終都在品質及口感上做最好的表達。
名山茶的形成在內涵上是很豐富的，它不是單一的原因，在市場上受到認同也不是單純的一個理由它必須有特殊的市場契機及某種偏好取向變化的機遇，但名山茶也是很有個性的，它的個性除了它具有一定的稀有性之外，它還是具有與茶園茶不同的產地面向，所以它產量的不確定性也造就了它獨特的個性，某個程度上名山茶的興起也改變了產地資金的流向，也凸顯出雲南產地與生產者之間脆弱的結構，名山茶在生產的過程當中所有權破碎，屬於眾人所有，這便具有高度的不確定性，對大型生產者而言，這卻是致命的，因為生產因素的不穩定性並不符合經濟規模的要求，尤其在價格上漲，供不應求的時候，雲南的茶廠原料的自主權利太弱，多半依賴契作合約，但這對名山茶來說沒有意義，名山茶的數量對大廠來說也沒有意義，這便會改變雲南的生產結構，畢竟名山茶的產生，是在大廠產品普及化後所產生的成熟化偏好，就好像老茶跟新茶的關係一樣，如果否定了老茶的價值，那任何一種鼓勵收藏普洱的論調便成了悖論，所以名山茶的形成並不是憑空而出的，它是市場成熟的必然現象，也有一定的歷史背景。例如福元昌號的茶餅便一再強調易武正山的概念，影響後世深遠，就是這個道理。
明白了名山茶形成的原因及背景，我們似乎可以深入的理解名山茶的個性及內涵是具有什麼特點，基本上我們可以從幾個面向來談論：
1.樹齡及品種：我們可以這麼說，先有大樹茶的價值，才有今日名山茶的盛況，但若論品種那對普洱茶來說是複雜的，除了某些地方具有特殊的品種，例如苦茶種、中小葉種之外，其他大葉種的產地都具有多元性的現象，我現在說的大樹茶不是野生茶，而是栽培型大茶樹，但它在茶樹年齡、樹冠、樹根的條件上都不同於茶園茶，一般這種茶在生態及生長速率便遠遠不如茶園茶，最主要的原因是茶園茶品種的精神在於抗寒、高產，茶園的分佈及日照係數皆高於大樹茶的產地，直接影響摘採數量，而且大樹茶樹根的深度及樹勢、樹冠皆明顯大於茶園茶，光合作用的效果及土壤風格的影響都會造成市場不同的認定，雖然不一定有科學依據，但好的大樹茶在口感上的表現確實優於茶園茶，某個程度上可能大樹茶某些內涵不如茶園茶，尤其是在科學數據上，但我認為這就好像生態食品於大量生產的食品一樣，口感及生態環境是不同的，營養卻可能相同，但大樹茶獨特的喉韻及緩慢的生長速率還是造就了其獨特的優勢。
2.氣候條件：一般來說獨特的氣候條件它不是單一的，可以分為氣候、地形、土壤特性，以氣候而言，它便與地勢密不可分，世界上的茶產地多半以北迴歸線為依歸，但最重要的是日照和氣溫適當，地形必須有變化，如此才能有冷熱的差異，任何一種植物除了光合作用外，也會進行呼吸，海拔的高低對茶樹的滋味有重要的影響，日照充足但海拔適中對茶葉的生長速率將有合理的抑制，通常會使得茶葉品質優異，當然水氣充足也是必要的，這就是為什麼普洱茶源於哀牢山但六大茶山卻在版納便是這個道理，雨量對於口感的影響也是重要的，近幾年雲南氣候的不穩定也影響了產地的價格，與一般瓜果相同，大雨必然淡，但大旱或微旱茶葉的滋味通常十分濃鬱清甜，一通百通葡萄酒也是這個道理，在法國甚至有將塑膠布蓋在園地上，以控制葡萄樹吸收水分的量就是如此，所以名山茶通常高海拔，刮風寨的茶王樹是如此，班章也是如此，也在北迴歸線上，在雲南海拔對於茶葉的分界是具有價格指標的，低海拔的叫壩茶，高海拔的不是荒山茶就是名山茶，還有一點就是微型氣候的特點，名山名寨必然是具有共性，但也有特點，除了土壤特性不同外，微型氣候就是個例子，譬如說同慶河就是一個很好的教材，以海拔而言它的高度並不如茶王樹，但同慶河的茶地是在溪谷中是具有密林特性的茶地，在古代的記述叫雜生林，既然雜生生態必然好，既然在密林溪谷中，氣溫必然低，所以同慶河的溫度一般來說比易武鎮涼爽，這便是微氣候的特性也造就了許多特色的口感。
3.土壤與地形：每個區域的土壤特性均不相同，在茶經上對於土壤的論述有一定的參考性，但我認為氣候、地形、與土壤才可充分的表達其與茶葉的關係，例如易武多以紅壤與磚紅壤為主，所以就產生了獨特的風味，雖然海拔的高低及微型氣候的不同會產生不同的差異，但整體來說易武茶的風味是具有共性的，我們不知道土壤對茶樹的影響有多深，但茶樹為了適應環境也會產生變化，這一點是可以確定的，這也是名山茶不可或缺的條件，土壤擁有許多機能如果從化學組成要素來說或許無法有效的說明尤其是具有科學性的，但某種元素必然影響著茶葉的滋味，不然名山茶的口感便不會如此多元化，從物理特性來說不同的土壤有不同的排水性而且內涵也不同，在茶經上對土壤的論述也可以做參考，但我認為土壤中的微量元素也是影響茶葉的因素之一，至於土壤內的生命結構則與有機製作有關，這對生態良好的產地並不困難，一般來說雜生林的生態較平衡，茶園茶的生態不平衡，相對用藥的可能性也大增，所以上述的特徵也是名山茶的共性之一。
4.摘採數量與管理：名山茶最具商業性的特點，就是產量少具稀有性，主要原因在於產地較少，生長速率慢，所以對於任何數量上的追求都將嚴重的影響名山茶未來的發展，名山茶的價格日漸攀升追求數量難以製止，但對於產地良性的製約目前看來已朝向良好的勢頭發展，某個程度來說適當的修剪及增加日照係數是合理的辦法，也有助於滋味的溫化，但過度的矮化便是長遠的傷害，雖然方便摘採，但對滋味大有影響，也會影響採採數量，應該朝生態及休養的概念來管理名山才是未來的趨勢，名山茶最該做的是減產，才能夠保證品質，目前在產地推廣夏茶不采的休養概念，我個人十分認同，相信這也是名山高價後的主要課題。由於名山茶所有權破碎，小戶承包鮮葉的商業行為日漸盛行，未來製作工法也將改變名山茶的風貌，初制所將成為未來名山的另一項風景，但我覺得工法的改變應該以茶葉的特性為前提，目前許多人在勐海製作拋條的毛茶，很多名山都有這個趨勢，但勐海的傳統是緊條，我個人認為茶葉是好看了但滋味也會有變化這都是未來必須思考的問題。
名山名寨的盛行，將普洱茶帶進了多元的時代，也改變了未來消費普洱茶的面向，它也將改變普洱茶的歷史，某個程度上來講，名山茶才是傳統，大廠茶是計畫經濟的產物，茶葉不是菸葉追求大規模與大數量其實與精緻的品飲文化不相符，如果茶葉缺乏內涵只是單純大量化生產的產物，茶文化又從何談起，每個普洱玩家心中都有一個完美口感，也都需要很多獨特的產地故事，名山茶為他們帶來了另外一種文化上的解放，普洱茶的未來必定是多元且美好的。
July 24, 2018 ·
The personality and branding trend of famous mountains and famous villages
Chen Zhitong Chen Guanghetang Tea Company
Any kind of famous mountain tea has an unbreakable regionality, which is mainly affected by local soil characteristics, topography, tea varieties, tree age, ecological conditions and picking quantity. Climate and production conditions are part of the intermediary variables. Adam Smith, the father of economics, mentioned in "The Wealth of Nations" that grapevines are more susceptible to soil than any fruit tree, and will absorb special flavors from a certain soil. This flavor cannot be given no matter what kind of farming or pruning method is used. This may be an apt description of the origin of Old World wines, but it may not be supported by exact data in science.
It is true that flavor cannot be quantified, but things that can be quantified may not be drinkable. I think the degree of quantification of medicines is relatively high. By the same token, famous mountain tea is also subject to similar conditions. If we transform the special soil flavor into a special mountain area, then the formation of famous mountain tea is not accidental. However, what is certain is that the taste of each mountain must be different. For example, Yiwu is sweet and fragrant with butyric acid, while Banzhang is oily camphor with a bitter base. This cannot but be said to be the influence of the environment. As for the formation of famous mountain tea, it is derived from special market characteristics and historical factors. The most important thing is that the taste and quality of its tea have, to a certain extent, achieved a consensus on the mainstream market taste. We can say that there is not much difference in the connotation and composition of Pu'er tea in the same year. There may be only slight differences in the connotation data, but there is such a big difference in price. This cannot be explained by science. It is a manifestation of consumer preference and culture. In other words, from a scientific point of view, the connotation of many teas is actually similar, and the nutritional value is also similar, but they have different destinies and performances. Why is this? In fact, to put it bluntly, it is the value people give it. When many people think that the flavor of famous mountain tea is valuable, the teas of Yiwu and Banzhang have characteristics and excellent taste, basically it has a certain market value. Take Yiwu as an example. It was a real mountain a hundred years ago. Many high-priced antique teas on the market are mostly from Yiwu, which has formed a market. The status of a place of origin with a century-old consensus can be imagined in the market. Banzhang is a newly emerged famous village. Although it is not blessed by old tea, its special flavor and taste are still recognized by the market. So we know that the market often recognizes taste and charm first. We can say that it is the influence of soil characteristics, but the market cannot see other conditions, such as production methods, ecological conditions, etc., but these conditions are ultimately the best expression in quality and taste.
The formation of famous mountain tea is very rich in connotation. It is not due to a single reason, and it is not simply recognized in the market because there must be special market opportunities and opportunities for changes in preference orientation. However, famous mountain tea is also very individual. In addition to its rarity, it also has a different origin from tea garden tea. Therefore, the uncertainty of its production also creates its unique personality. To a certain extent, the rise of famous mountain tea has also changed the flow of funds in the production area, and also highlighted the fragile structure between the production area and producers in Yunnan. The ownership of famous mountain tea is fragmented during the production process and belongs to everyone, which makes it highly uncertain. For large producers, this It is fatal, because the instability of production factors does not meet the requirements of economic scale, especially when prices rise and supply exceeds demand. Yunnan tea factories have too weak autonomy in raw materials and mostly rely on contract farming. However, this is meaningless for famous mountain tea, and the number of famous mountain tea is meaningless to large factories. This will change the production structure of Yunnan. After all, the emergence of famous mountain tea is a mature preference generated after the popularization of large factory products, just like the relationship between old tea and new tea. If the value of old tea is denied, then any argument that encourages the collection of Pu'er will become a paradox. Therefore, the formation of famous mountain tea is not out of thin air. It is an inevitable phenomenon of market maturity and has a certain historical background. For example, the tea cakes of Fuyuanchang repeatedly emphasize the concept of Yiwu Zhengshan, which has a profound impact on future generations. This is the reason.
Knowing the reasons and background of the formation of famous mountain tea, we seem to be able to deeply understand the personality and connotation of famous mountain tea. Basically, we can discuss it from several aspects:
1. Tree age and variety: We can say that the value of big tree tea first led to the prosperity of famous mountain tea today, but if we talk about varieties, it is complicated for Pu'er tea. Except for some places with special varieties, such as bitter tea, small and medium leaf varieties, the origins of other large leaf varieties are diverse. The big tree tea I am talking about now is not wild tea, but cultivated big tea tree, but it is different from tea garden tea in terms of tea tree age, tree crown, and tree root conditions. Generally, this kind of tea is far inferior to tea garden tea in ecology and growth rate. The main reason is The spirit of tea garden tea varieties lies in cold resistance and high yield. The distribution and sunshine coefficient of tea gardens are higher than those of big tree tea, which directly affects the number of pickings. In addition, the root depth, tree vigor and crown of big tree tea are obviously greater than those of tea garden tea. The effect of photosynthesis and the influence of soil style will cause different market recognition. Although there may not be scientific basis, good big tree tea does perform better than tea garden tea in taste. To a certain extent, some connotations of big tree tea may not be as good as tea garden tea, especially in scientific data, but I think this is like ecological food and mass-produced food. The taste and ecological environment are different, but the nutrition may be the same, but the unique throat rhyme and slow growth rate of big tree tea still create its unique advantages.
2. Climate conditions: Generally speaking, unique climate conditions are not single, and can be divided into climate, terrain, and soil characteristics. As for climate, it is inseparable from terrain. Most of the world's tea producing areas are based on the Tropic of Cancer, but the most important thing is that the sunshine and temperature are appropriate. The terrain must change so that there can be differences in cold and hot. In addition to photosynthesis, any plant will also breathe. The height of the altitude has an important impact on the taste of tea trees. Sufficient sunshine but moderate altitude will have a reasonable inhibition on the growth rate of tea leaves, which usually makes the tea quality excellent. Of course, sufficient moisture is also necessary. This is why Pu'er tea originated from Ailao Mountain but the six major tea mountains are in Banna. The influence of rainfall on taste is also important. In recent years, the unstable climate in Yunnan has also affected the price of the place of origin. The same as general fruits and vegetables, heavy rain will inevitably be light, but the taste of severe or mild drought tea is usually very rich and sweet, and the same is true for Yitong Baitong wine. This is the reason why in France, people even cover the garden with plastic sheets to control the amount of water absorbed by the grapevines. Therefore, famous mountain tea is usually at high altitudes. This is the case with the King of Tea trees in Guafeng Village and Banzhang, which are also on the Tropic of Cancer. In Yunnan, the altitude is a price indicator for tea. Low altitude tea is called Ba tea, and high altitude tea is either barren mountain tea or famous mountain tea. Another point is the characteristics of microclimate. Famous mountains and famous villages must have commonalities, but they also have characteristics. In addition to different soil characteristics, microclimate is an example. For example, Tongqing River is a good teaching material. In terms of altitude, its height is not as high as the King of Tea Trees, but the tea fields of Tongqing River are in the valleys with dense forest characteristics. In ancient records, it is called mixed forest. Since the mixed ecology must be good, and since it is in the dense forest valley, the temperature must be low, so the temperature of Tongqing River is generally cooler than that of Yiwu Town. This is the characteristic of microclimate and also creates many special tastes.
3. Soil and terrain: The soil characteristics of each region are different. The discussion of soil in the "Tea Classic" has a certain reference value, but I think climate, terrain, and soil can fully express their relationship with tea. For example, Yiwu is mainly red soil and brick red soil, so it has a unique flavor. Although the altitude and microclimate will produce different differences, the flavor of Yiwu tea is generally common. We don't know how deep the soil affects the tea tree, but the tea tree will also change in order to adapt to the environment. This is certain. This is also an indispensable condition for famous mountain tea. The soil has many functions. If we look at the chemical composition, It may not be possible to explain it effectively, especially scientifically, but some elements must affect the taste of tea, otherwise the taste of famous mountain tea would not be so diverse. From the physical characteristics, different soils have different drainage and different connotations. The discussion of soil in the Tea Classic can also be used as a reference, but I think the trace elements in the soil are also one of the factors that affect tea. As for the life structure in the soil, it is related to organic production, which is not difficult for production areas with good ecology. Generally speaking, the ecology of mixed forests is more balanced, while the ecology of tea gardens is unbalanced, and the possibility of using medicine is also greatly increased. Therefore, the above characteristics are also one of the common characteristics of famous mountain tea.
4. Picking quantity and management: The most commercial feature of famous mountain tea is its low yield and rarity. The main reason is that there are few producing areas and the growth rate is slow. Therefore, any pursuit of quantity will seriously affect the future development of famous mountain tea. The price of famous mountain tea is rising day by day, and the pursuit of quantity is difficult to stop, but the benign constraints on the producing areas seem to be developing in a good direction. To a certain extent, proper pruning and increasing the sunshine coefficient are reasonable methods, which also help to warm the taste, but excessive dwarfing is a long-term harm. Although it is convenient for picking, it has a great impact on the taste and the number of picking. The future trend should be to manage famous mountains with the concepts of ecology and recuperation. What famous mountain tea should do most is to reduce production in order to ensure quality. At present, the concept of recuperation of not picking summer tea is promoted in the producing areas. I personally agree with it and believe that this is also the main issue behind the high price of famous mountains. Due to the fragmentation of the ownership of famous mountain tea, the commercial behavior of small households contracting fresh leaves is becoming more and more popular. In the future, the production method will also change the style of famous mountain tea. The primary processing plant will become another landscape of famous mountains in the future, but I think the change of the method should be based on the characteristics of tea. At present, many people in Menghai make raw tea with thrown strips. Many famous mountains have this trend, but Menghai’s tradition is tight strips. I personally think that the tea is beautiful but the taste will also change. These are all issues that must be considered in the future.
The prevalence of famous mountains and famous villages has brought Pu'er tea into a diversified era and changed the future consumption of Pu'er tea. It will also change the history of Pu'er tea. To a certain extent, famous mountain tea is traditional, and large factory tea is a product of planned economy. Tea is not tobacco. The pursuit of large scale and large quantity is actually inconsistent with the exquisite drinking culture. If tea lacks connotation and is just a product of mass production, how can we talk about tea culture? Every Pu'er player has a perfect taste in his heart and needs many unique origin stories. Famous mountain tea brings them another kind of cultural liberation. The future of Pu'er tea must be diverse and beautiful. |
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